Gastronomy in Nicosia: Cypriot flavours between Greece and Turkey
A cuisine at the crossroads of two traditions
Cypriot gastronomy is the product of centuries of cultural blending between the Greek and Ottoman worlds. In Nicosia, this dual culinary identity takes on its full meaning: in the south, moussaka, souvlaki and tarama are savoured in family-run whitewashed tavernas, while in the north, lahmacun, pide and apple tea perfume the alleyways of the old bazaar. Some iconic dishes transcend this border, such as halloumi, that uniquely textured Cypriot cheese enjoyed grilled, fresh or in salads, and a source of pride across the entire island.
The quintessential traditional meal is the mezze, a true institution in Cyprus. In Nicosia's restaurants, it unfolds as a succession of twenty to thirty small dishes served progressively: creamy hummus, tahini, tzatziki, dolmas (stuffed vine leaves), keftedes (spiced meatballs), fried calamari and many more delights. Accompanied by a glass of zivania, the local spirit, or a Commandaria wine, one of the oldest wines in the world, the Cypriot mezze is a gastronomic experience not to be missed.
Must-visit addresses in the capital
In the pedestrianised Laiki Geitonia quarter, traditional tavernas such as To Anamma serve authentic Cypriot cuisine in a warm atmosphere with an inner courtyard garden. The Nicosia Municipal Market, located in the old town within the Venetian walls, is essential for lovers of fresh produce. Here you will find Kalamata olives, artisanal cheeses, rose-water-scented loukoumi and herbs dried under the Mediterranean sun.
On the northern side, Yiayia Victoria cafe charms visitors with its Greek and Turkish-inspired pastries: flaky bougatsa, crispy spanakopitas and baklava dripping with honey syrup. For street food enthusiasts, kebab and doner stands along Arasta Street near Buyuk Han offer a quick and flavourful lunch at very affordable prices. New bicommunal restaurants have also emerged in recent years, employing both Greek and Turkish Cypriots and serving cuisine that fuses both traditions in a spirit of culinary reconciliation.
Cooking classes and food tours
To extend the experience, several local operators offer bilingual food tours that take visitors across both sides of the Green Line, tasting specialities from each neighbourhood. Cooking classes also teach you how to prepare Cypriot classics: sheftalia (grilled sausage wrapped in caul fat), kolokassi (taro stewed with chicken) or flaouna, the island's typical Easter cheese pastry. Bringing home a bottle of extra virgin olive oil from the Troodos hills or a jar of carob jam makes the perfect gourmet souvenir from your stay in Nicosia.